photo: Damsel in Dior
I have a huge appreciation for Vogue, the editors, writers, and freelancers who make it work. The creative visionaries who know how to capture images, the people behind the scenes who make sure everything works smoothly. Vogue, and other publications just like it, are the cornerstones of fashion journalism.
Publications like these are usually the inspiration behind so many blogs that are created nowadays. Far from wanting to compete with the exclusivity of journalism, young women want to create their own publications and express themselves through style.
Sally Singer, Vogue Creative Digital Director.
“(Note to bloggers who change head-to-toe, paid-to-wear outfits every hour: Please stop. Find another business. You are heralding the death of style.)”
Sarah Mower, Vogue.com Chief Critic
“Sally, the professional blogger bit, with the added aggression of the street photographer swarm who attend them, is horrible, but most of all, pathetic for these girls, when you watch how many times the desperate troll up and down outside shows, in traffic, risking accidents even, in hopes of being snapped.”
Nicole Phelps, Director Vogue Runway
“Which brings me back around to Sally and Sarah’s points about the street style mess. It’s not just sad for the women who preen for the cameras in borrowed clothes, it’s distressing, as well, to watch so many brands participate.”
Alessandra Codinha, Vogue.com Fashion News Editor
“Am I allowed to admit that I did a little fist pump when Sally broached the blogger paradox? There’s not much I can add here beyond how funny it is that we even still call them “bloggers,” as so few of them even do that anymore. Rather than a celebration of any actual style, it seems to be all about turning up, looking ridiculous, posing, twitching in your seat as you check your social media feeds, fleeing, changing, repeating . . . It’s all pretty embarrassing—even more so when you consider what else is going on in the world. (Have you registered to vote yet? Don’t forget the debate on Monday!)”
Blogger is not a dirty word, although it seems to connote inexperience and narcissism these days. Blogging is a great way to express yourself and stay creative. As a writer and an editor, I don’t feel any less qualified than the online editor of Vogue, though I know her job must be like mine, but on a much larger level. Most bloggers and online publications have that feeling too. Why can’t we go where they go? Why can’t we do what they do? It’s no longer an invitation only game.
Our generation are creating their own magazines, now. We know that the future is online, and we’ve fully established ourselves there. However, I think the issue that these women have is with Fashion Week in general. There are some people who turn up only to take photos of themselves, who aren’t really there to watch the show, who stalk up and down the streets without tickets in an uncomfortable outfit causing chaos and queues, and I think that offends the journalists and editors who work so hard to go there and appreciate and critique the collections put in front of them.
But I also think the language used to convey this has all bloggers in arms. It seems quite sensationalist, accusatory and a little bit bitchy. Pathetic? Hey, where’s the support for other women? Vogue’s story sounds more like they want everyone to stay in their own lane. Other bloggers and influencers read that story and were a little confused, too.
Susie Bubble kicked off the debate with a series of tweets of her opinion on this:
So it basically boils down to the same criticism I heard eight years ago. The fashion establishment don’t want their circles enlarged…
— susiebubble (@susiebubble) September 26, 2016
@susiebubble Why don’t they instead collaborate with online influencers who are smart enough to make a living off what they do?
— Juliana Chow (@JulianaChow) September 27, 2016
— The Editorialist LA (@editorialistla) September 26, 2016
When companies have to throw one event for journalists and one for bloggers, you know the gap isn’t going to close anytime soon. But it needs to. Bloggers will keep doing what they’re doing, defining the way publications create and curate information, and building businesses from the ground up around their own style, voice, and personality. And print magazines will continue to want to hire the next generation of editors and visionaries, but they’ll be doing their own thing. “Find another business,” said Sally Singer. And the brilliant thing is, they will.